Showing posts with label family travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label family travel. Show all posts

Thursday, July 2, 2015

France Day 13: We see dead people


This morning, we walked across the street to this adorable patisserie, just steps outside our door, to grab breakfast. This is why I love Paris. These are on nearly every street corner!



Then we picked up tickets for the L’Open Bus and headed for the catacombs. (This bus truly is the best way to get around Paris. For $32, you get a full day of hop-on, hop-off privileges, and there are 5 different lines that go all over the city. You can ride on the open top, which looks dorky, but allows you to see way more than you would on the Metro. They provide a free audio guide to what you are seeing as you pass it.)


Now, let me rewind 6 months to share the great Catacombs debate.  When planning this trip, I told M the one thing I want to see is the Catacombs. She said, “no way, not happening, nope, nada, NON!”  She told me that she didn’t want to see dead bodies. I told her I would leave her in the hotel and go alone if I had to. We had this conversation about once a week, for 6 months. Today was finally the day. She went, but wasn’t happy about it.


Neither was I once I saw the line. We arrived early, but still had to wait 2.5 hours in the hot sun. I don’t think I’ve ever even waited in line at Disneyland for 2.5 hours! M and I took turns standing in line, while the other sat nearby in the park.  When we finally entered, we had to go down a really skinny spiral staircase that appeared to go close to the center of the earth. It was dark, damp and cold – only 53 degrees! As we walked through the narrow corridors, M said to me, “Grandma is going to be SO MAD at you!” I guess Grandma was team No Catacombs!

"Stop! This is the empire of the dead!"

The Catacombs are awesome because they are totally unique to Paris. In the late 1700s, the cemeteries here were positively overflowing, and causing a public health hazard. Officials decided to dig up all the bodies in Paris’ cemeteries and move the bones to abandoned rock quarries underneath the city. 


They stacked them in sections, marked with a sign designating which cemetery they had come from. 


There are more than 5 million skeletons in the Catacombs! You have to walk for 2km underground to see them all (and to get out).  






When it was over, M said, “I am glad we did that. It was cool.”  Yes!! Moms love vindication.

As we climbed 100 steps back to the surface, she said, “Mom, if you don’t get me food soon, they are going have to add my bones to the pile.” So dramatic!

So we grabbed lunch at a café, then hopped back on the bus to go to the Louvre. Last time we were in Paris, we didn’t do the Louvre. It looked exhausting and M prefers shopping, while I prefer more macabre sightseeing ventures, and food.  But this time, we decided it was a must. So we descended into the pyramid and followed the hoards to the Mona Lisa. Ok, it’s pretty cool that she is 500 years old. But other than that – meh. 



I was much more impressed by the actual building (which used to be a palace) and its beautiful ceilings. We saw the 2200 year old Winged Victory sculpture, the Venus de Milo, and a million paintings. My feet hurt – a pain that could only be cured by Laduree.



I mentioned previously that we LOVE the macarons from Laduree – so we trekked over and bought a box. Since we were in the neighborhood, we hit the giant and incredibly glamorous Galleries Lafayette department store to try to find new light dresses to wear in tomorrow’s heat. But we were broke from our Laduree spending spree, so we moved over to H&M instead, and each bought the airiest dress we could find.

We then decided to take the full circuit on the bus tour to see the Champs Elysees, Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame, and other beloved landmarks – because it had finally cooled down and the breeze felt nice atop the bus. Just as we neared our hotel, a bird flew overhead and pooped on M’s arm! I told her that meant we would have good luck for the rest of the trip.  She was not impressed.

For dinner we walked to a Brasserie and ate chicken, mashed potatoes, salad and chocolate mousse. We watched the Eiffel Tower sparkle from our hotel room window, and hit the hay.

Tomorrow: Versailles!

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

France Day 12: It's Getting Hot in Here!

We started our day walking to a café in Strasbourg, where we had croissants shaped like pretzels (seemed appropriate since we were near the German border in France!).  Then we had a 5-hour road trip to Paris. 

I will do a separate post after we return home about how AMAZING the French highways and rest stops are. 5 hours sounds tedious, but when the speed limit is equal to 87mph and every rest stop is an a amazing adventure – it’s not that bad!

As we neared Paris, the freeway signs read, “Fortes chaleurs! Hydratez-vous!” (Hot weather! Hydrate!)  I looked at the car thermometer and it read 41.5 degrees, which Siri informed me is equal to 106 degrees Farenheit! Wait, WHAT?! That can’t be right. I turned on the radio and thought I heard them say (my French is good, but not perfect) that "this is a record-breaking heat wave, and that it hasn’t been this hot since 2003 since all those people died.” That couldn’t be right…I needed English. So I Googled “Paris heat wave” on my phone. Turns out it actually hasn’t been this hot in Paris on any day in July since 1947. NINETEEN FORTY-SEVEN. And it chose to be that hot again on the 3 days that we are here. Fantastic.


We found the parking garage I had pre-reserved and dragged our luggage 3 blocks to the hotel. Did I mention it was 106-degrees? Fortunately, when we arrived, I realized I am mildly obsessed with Hotel Thoumieux. I will do a separate post on it too, because it deserves stand-alone attention. It is PERFECT. I can open our window, lean out, look left, and see the Eiffel Tower!


We started wandering, and went right to the Seine. We decided to hope on one of the Bateaux Mouches that tour the river, thinking that at least a moving boat would create some breeze, and we wouldn’t have to walk. These boats are usually packed. Today – not so much.


We saw the Eiffel Tower, Musee d’Orsay, Louvre, tons of gorgeous bridges, the Grand Palais, tons of people “beaching” along the Seine, and the fancy prison where Marie Antoinette was held before losing her head (below).



We put a “love lock” on the famous love locks bridge (Pont Des Arts) 2 years ago, so we’ve been following the story of how the city removed the locks because the weight was starting to make the bridge collapse. We saw how it is now boarded up, so people can no longer put on locks. 


But the funny and unexpected part of the cruise was that there are now locks EVERYWHERE on EVERYTHING else! LOL! Almost every other bridge now has them. You can’t keep the people down, France! If they want to express love by writing their names on a lock, placing it on something, and throwing the key into the river – damn it – they are going to do it! Here are 2 different bridges, now both completely covered with locks!...



We left the boat and walked to the Pont D’Alma tunnel where Princess Diana died. It is coincidentally the same spot where there is an exact replica of the Statue of Liberty’s flame. We had no idea, but today was Diana’s birthday! So a small memorial had popped up. (Also note the love locks! Haha!)


We ate dinner at the restaurant where President Obama and Michelle ate when they visited Paris (yes, that is how I picked places!). It was 9pm and still 96 degrees. We ate outside on the sidewalk and drank roughly 200 gallons of water.


Then we walked over to the Parc du Champs de Mars, under the Eiffel Tower. We sat on the grass, took tons of pictures, and waited for the light show on the tower at 11pm. Spectacular! M looked at me and said, “this is my favorite thing EVER.”



Sweaty and tired, we walked back hand in hand, talking about some day moving to Paris for a summer because we love it so much.
Tomorrow: The great Catacombs debate of 2015

Monday, June 29, 2015

France Day 10: Why We Came To France

This morning we got up and walked around Annecy some more. This building in the middle of the canal is a prison that was built in the 1100s. That blows my mind. That’s like 300 years before anyone in Europe even knew the Americas existed. And yet there it is – still standing.


With great sadness, we left Annecy and headed up the road to Yvoire, which sits on Lake Geneva. You can actually see Geneva, Switzerland across the lake from the medieval village of Yvoire. We grabbed some artisan glace (ice cream) in green apple, pear and raspberry flavors, and hiked around the town.



Yvoire is really charming -- with tons of colorful flowers everywhere! There is a labyrinth of the 5 senses (which we didn't do because it was too hot), a castle on the lake and lots of cute shops and restaurants. I bought a hand-carved wooden Christmas ornament and we headed back to the car to drive north.




On our way out of town, we drove through Evian, where the bottled water comes from. This was particularly exciting for me, since, as a super taster, I am a bit of a bottled water connoisseur. Evian is my favorite! (Dasani is THE WORST. It takes like water with dirty pennies in it.)  Since Evian was kind of a modern town with an expensive spa and not much to see, M was all, “whatever.”


To get around Lake Geneva, we had to drive through Switzerland for 90 minutes, and Germany for half an hour. We stopped in Gruyere, Switzerland for lunch and had, you guessed it, gruyere cheese sandwiches for lunch. Yum! This was our view during lunch:


Then it was on to Colmar. Colmar is the very reason I decided to come to France this summer. I have always loved reading about France, studying French, and researching my half-French heritage. I remember being really little and visiting Epcot Center’s section with all the countries. France was always my favorite. I bought a little purple Eiffel Tower key chain when I was 9 years old, and kept it until I left for college – telling myself that some day I would see it in person. Since then, I have been to France twice (before this trip) – but only Paris and Marseille – never the rest.  About a year ago, I was populating my “travel wish list” on Pinterest, and came across a photo of Colmar. It was the prettiest thing I had ever seen. It was similar to this, which I took today:


In our family, we have a policy – follow your arrow. Listen to your heart, know what speaks to you, and go after it. So I pinned that picture of Colmar, and told M we were going to plan a trip to France.




So here we are, and, while Colmar is pretty – I liked Annecy better. Ha! But that’s ok. Colmar led us here, and so off we went to explore it. It is bigger than I thought, and much bigger than Annecy. We walked most of the old town area, since our hotel sits right in the middle.


Hotel Le Marechal is as adorable as can be. Our room overlooks a main square in the town, and the back door opens into Petite Venise, the area with all the canals and pretty colored homes.  The problem with Petite Venise is that, unlike Annecy, you can't walk along the canals. The only real way to see it is by boat. It is still beautiful, but difficult to see.

Most of Colmar looks like Disneyland – like it can’t possibly be real. M and I kept saying “we are walking through Beauty and the Beast!”  (Which I think we have said about most towns on this trip to far.) At one point, we even broke out singing, "Be! Our! Guest!…"

Colmar has a lot of German influence, and the restaurants served mostly sausage and sauerkraut. Being a fan of neither, we grabbed some pasta in carry out cartons and returned to the room to Facetime some family back home.

Tomorrow: The Alsace Wine Route and Strasbourg

Sunday, June 28, 2015

France Day Nine: Yes We Cannes!

We thought we wouldn’t have a lot to share today, since we had a 4-1/2 hour drive from the Riviera to the French Alps. But by day’s end, we found a new favorite town, had a new favorite meal, and even drove a boat!


After scarfing down breakfast at the corner patisserie, we headed for Cannes, which we kind of neglected in our hurry to get to our hotel a few days back. We strolled the beach (above), visited the theater where they hold the Cannes Film Festival, and walked along their walk of stars (weak in comparison to ours).


We especially loved the public bathrooms (below)! For half a Euro, you can go in, go potty, and then the ENTIRE inside gets sprayed down and disinfected when you leave. I don’t know what it is about France and bathrooms, but we never fail to be entertained or delighted by them in some way.


France also has also made us realize the US has a shortage of carousels. Every single town we have visited has a carousel in the town square. Here is the one in Cannes:


They bring music, laughter and color to every park! Tres jolie! Speaking of Jolie…


Cannes kind of reminds me of New Orleans, if New Orleans were situated on a large sandy beach. The architecture is of the same era and it has that same artsy, eclectic feel. I could live here!



We walked along the old harbor and then finally decided we better hit the car and head for the hills. On our way out of town, France gave us the peace sign, to tell us it had forgiven us from a few days back, when it gave us the finger.


On the way, we drove through Valensole, where the bulk of sunflower and lavender fields line the highway. They were stunning!

But the best was yet to come, because tonight we are sleeping in Annecy. It is a town in the Alps, close to Switzerland – and has tons of wooden chalets with geraniums to prove it. If there is a heaven, it looks like Annecy. 



There are charming canals everywhere. We stopped to watch a German shepherd jump into the canal, swim all the way down to the only staircase to get out, then jump back in and do it all over again. He looked so happy! 


The town sits on a sparkly lake, with the Alps in the background. The lake is full of ducklings, swans and rainbows. We headed rented a paddleboat, headed out onto the lake, and got a good leg workout while exploring the beauty all around us.

(M was paddling during this pic!)

Rainbow!


When we left the lake to walk to dinner, this was happening in the park:


We have no idea what was going on, but the people were having so much fun! We walked along the canals and settled into a Swiss restaurant, with wooden menus, where we had fondue. (When in Rome, er, the Alps!)


On the way back to Splendid Hotel (not even joking - that is its name!), we saw baby swans. I thought swans were supposed to be ugly ducklings as babies! But not in Annecy, the world’s prettiest village, where even the baby swans are precious. 


Seriously, put Annecy on your bucket list!! It is our new favorite.
Tomorrow: The reason I decided to come to France in the first place: Colmar