Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts

Saturday, June 4, 2016

Spain Day Three: Road Trip to Magic Mountain



We had pre-reserved a rental car through Europcar, and planned to pick it up at the Barcelona Sants train station, because that was closer to our hotel than the airport. We took a cab to the station, easily found the rental counter and received our car. I was a bit worried that the pink monster wouldn’t fit in a tiny Euopean rental car, but the VW Golf handled it just fine.

That's the pink monster, glowing in the back!

And…we were off! Using Google Maps GPS, we headed for Valencia. Because there is a Valencia, CA very close to us at home – and it is the location of Six Flags Magic Mountain – we kept joking that we were driving to Magic Mountain. Along the way, I introduced Adam to the wonders of gas station food in Europe. We stopped at a rest stop that had a full barista-staffed coffee bar, a fresh salad bar, freshly squeezed juices, hot handmade pizzas and sandwiches, etc. Seriously, if gas stations were like this in the US, I would actually spend more time (and money) there!

At the gas station, we saw a Lamborghini with rally race stickers on the side, and noted that it would most certainly go blowing by us back on the Autopista. It never did, but a few miles down the road, we found ourselves in the middle of the rally! A Porsche Panamera, F-Type Jaguar and Mercedes AMG GT with the same stickers all flew past. Sweet!

The drive was an easy three hours. I told Adam that kilometers go by much faster than miles. We both laughed. I know that’s because they are smaller – duh! But it’s true! It makes a trip feel faster!

When driving in Europe, finding a hotel and parking is always the most stressful part. We pulled into Valencia and found our hotel, but couldn’t figure out where to park to unload. Finally, we just pulled over, dumped the bags, and I stayed with them while Adam drove 4 blocks to the parking garage.

 
Our hotel

Our hotel was amazing!  It was the One Shot Reina Victoria, which was the first ever hotel in Valencia, built in 1913. I didn’t even know this when booking! I never read reviews when making reservations because people are crazy. I book purely on photos. If a place looks cool, I’m in. Turns out Hemingway stayed at this hotel while writing The Sun Also Rises in 1925. Faithful blog readers will know that I accidentally follow Hemingway everywhere he goes. Without planning to, I went all the places he did in Key West, Paris, Cuba, and now Valencia! It is like we are travel soul mates separated by a century.




I loved Valencia. There isn’t a major landmark, so there weren’t many tourists. But for me, the attraction was the city itself. It is full of clean white baroque and colorful art deco buildings. Compared to Barcelona it felt more graceful – softer and brighter. Orange trees line the streets.



We walked around, taking photos and shopping. Adam scored a great vintage poster in an old dusty book store for $5. I stopped at a place called Zumm Salads to grab a quick sandwich and had the best turkey/cheese/green apple sandwich I have ever had. I also wanted to try fresh OJ since Valencia is known for its oranges. OMG. Best orange juice EVER.


Valencia also has a section outside the historic quarter that is full of modern buildings. They are art museums, an oceanographic studies center, a zoo, and a few other things I don’t remember. It was such a nice, airy district – all centered around a huge park where locals run, ride bikes and picnic.







We returned to our historic hotel for showers, and headed out to dinner. We picked a place because it had my initials above the door (unrelated to the name of the restaurant, and we still don’t know why it was there). 


Beautiful blue glass bottle full of plain water; note the empty restaurant

We arrived at 7:30, but the kitchen didn’t open until 8 (of course), so we sat on the patio and had sangria. When we finished dinner at 9:45, people were just starting to fill up the restaurant. But we were exhausted so we said buenos noches to Valencia.


Tomorrow: Cartegena shows us the real Spain.


xoxo

Friday, June 3, 2016

Spain Day Two: Gaudy, But We Love It!

Bull Fighting Ring, Barcelona

We started the day by grabbing pastries and coffee from the bakery directly next door to our hotel, then catching the Hop On Hop Off bus. This open-top bus costs 28 euros for 24 hours and is the most convenient way to see a lot of Barcelona on a tight schedule. It also comes with a pretty decent audio tour, in English. We rode on the top deck and saw the old harbor, beaches, Olympic Village, a bullfighting ring, the famous Barcelona building I call “the bullet,” a modernist hospital, a Frank Gehry-designed hotel and sculpture, and a lot more.

"the bullet"

Our destination was Park Guell, on the far edge of town. We got off the bus and walked 15 minutes to the park ticket office, only to learn that the next available tickets were for 6pm. It was noon. We hiked back, got back on the bus, and went to the other Gaudi building we wanted to see – La Padrera.

The roof of La Padrera, looking down into the center courtyard;
"storm troopers" on the left

La Padrera is an amazing apartment building that looks like melting ice cream – all curvy shapes and soft edges. Gaudi said that rooftops should be beautiful too – not just functional. So we began our tour on the roof, where he designed a series of sculptural chimneys, stairwell exits and antennae covers. Adam said they looked like storm troopers. The ones topped with broken champagne bottles are obviously based on a certain male body part. Gaudi did base all his designs on nature!

ummmm...

The arches on the rooftop were built to frame Gaudi’s masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia. 

Arch framing La Sagrada Familia, way in the distance

We descended the stairs and entered an actual apartment. It was huge! Way bigger than I expected. It encircled the center courtyard and took up an entire floor, so it had natural light from both sides. People still live on other floors in the building. Can you even imagine living in a Gaudi building? I mean, the guy has a commonly used word (gaudy) based entirely on his name and design style. How cool!



Next we stopped for tapas along the Passeig de Gracia, and I ordered pasta because I was tapas-ed out.  We walked to the Placa de Catalunya, the huge square in the center of the city, and sat for a bit to watch pigeons and people taking selfies. Then we strolled down Ramblas, which was incredibly crowded, so we dipped into the Gothic Quarter and found a quiet square on which to enjoy some gelato.


After strolling and shopping a bit, we grabbed a cab back to Park Guell for our 6pm ticket time. Park Guell is a Gaudi-designed housing development that was started, but never finished. It is basically the grounds that were going to have houses built on site, but the houses never followed. Everything in the park is covered with broken tiles. We saw the salamander, which is the symbol of the city, and the serpent shaped bench that winds for hundreds of meters around a huge vaulted space that overlooks all of Barcelona. 




The grounds also feature a grotto built entirely of stone, part of which Gaudi designed to look like you are inside the barrel of a wave. Overall, Park Guell was well worth the extra effort and cost it took to get there. We agreed we were glad we had gone.

The Wave


We headed back to the hotel and vowed to hold out until 9pm to eat dinner, as that is when the restaurants start to fill up. It was still light outside when we left the hotel at 9:30. WTF Spain? We are used to darkness falling at 8:30, not 10pm. It was weird! No wonder people eat so late!

Strolling past the cathedral, just as people have done for 800 years

Cool street art, made up of thousands of tiny photos

We had dinner at 10pm at a place called Taller de Tapas, which was also very good. I had white sangria instead of red this time. We had salads, bread, cheese, meat that was cooked in a pot with chilis and garlic – it all was delicious!

Back at the hotel, we went to the rooftop one last time and said goodnight to Barcelona.

"the bullet" in the distance

Tomorrow: The road trip begins!


xoxo